![]() The Inverter was running a 2000w AC unit the whole time. Here's my graphs from Victron from my labor day trip, from the Wakespeed itself and my shunt. For voltage it auto detects the voltage which it did at 12V but now I'm wondering if thats just because of the battery. I set the lithium profile up with the charging voltages as well as limited the output. I think only the field goes to the alternator but there's a bunch of other wires that go to the shunt and other things. Whenever my 12V goes high or low it trips my firefly panel which then resets my entire 12V system which takes 10 seconds or so.Ĭlick to expand.didn't come programmed at all so I had to do all the programming using this software below and wired it myself. Thanks I was aware of that but my BMS didn't trip or at least it wasn't in an alm state. I want the Balmar 48V 100a alternator below but seems a bit much for my needs. I'm trying to be done with electrical for a bit and work on the rest of the coach but keep spending cash. ![]() Gotta check the size of the house alternator though. My chassis has a 24V alternator also so I might just run a 24 to 12v 70a Victron Orion and call it a day, although I wanted over 1500w so we can run 1 AC while driving without losing power. I know sterling has the alternator APD which is designed to protect the alternator but is there also anything I can put to protect my 12V house and batteries from it spiking? Fuses only protect against over-current not over-voltage. Now I'm concerned my alternator will continue to spike voltages so the wakespeed is disconnected to disable the alternator. I don't know how alternators work or how they configure the voltage. But my biggest question is if my alternator was 24V originally from the Prevost factory then the custom coach manufacturer (Nashville Coach) converted it to 12V somehow, how does that happen? They make 12V and 24V 50DN alternators (12V is 300a 24v is 270a) So I'm wondering if they took the entire thing out of the case and swapped the internals OR did they disconnect half the diodes or something to make it pump out half the voltage. I'm not sure if its defective or something else. I believe my alternator is the device thats spiking power somehow. Whenever my 12V goes high or low it trips my firefly panel which then resets my entire 12V system which takes 10 seconds or so. ![]() The result is often that anything attached to that circuit will be fried.Ĭlick to expand.Thanks I was aware of that but my BMS didn't trip or at least it wasn't in an alm state. This happens far to fast for any alternator controller to deal with. Use a battery to battery charger that takes in the voltage you have and outputs the voltage that you need.įor instance sterling and SEC america sell these. If you need a different voltage from an existing alternator + starter battery: ![]() An alternator is built from the ground up to be 12, 24 or 48 volts. Don't expect them to help either as no matter what you did correctly, they will find a reason to not be helpful.Īs far as 12 vs 24 volts - you cannot change an alternator's base output voltage by changing the external controller. The result is often that anything attached to that circuit will be fried.įor better or worse, I have a post in the smoke and something thread about this as well for 48 volt alternators set up with that WS. This happens far too fast for any alternator controller to deal with. When this happens, there is a large voltage spike and unless your system has a voltage suppressor in it, the voltage can go quite high. If the BMS on the LiFe batteries tripped, then it creates an open circuit for the alternator output. I'm a bit at a loss on what I should do as I planned on using this 12v alternator for the 12v system and adding a 48v alternator in another spot. Now I'm wondering how alternators are converted to a lower voltage and if its possible something triggered it to switch back to 24v, or if they just replaced the insides of the alternator with a 12v model and it's just defective. Well turns out it ended up spiking to just over 20v before frying my firefly 12v control panel and a thermostat. I assumed it was just a bit higher than it should have been so I adjusted the voltage from 12v to a custom 13v system and tried it out. I've had a problem where the alternator would run for 10 minutes at 13ish amps charging my lithium then get a battery overvoltage error 13 and shutdown. I hooked up a wakespeed ws500 and it also shows its 12v (auto selected 12v voltage). My understanding is the 50dn comes in 300a 12v or 270a 24v but it was obviously setup for only 12v. ![]() My coach came with a 50dn alternator and the faceplate is kinda rusted but it clearly stated 270 amps. ![]()
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